Many beauty items that make their way onto store shelves come added with liposomes. The wonder industry states these liposomes, or small fat capsules, are capable of transporting ingredients deep in to the skin where they release the ingredients so that they can affect the skin’s structure by rejuvenating and smoothing the skin.
However, a new study in the University of Southern Denmark, published within the Journal of Investigative Dermatology (JID), reveals that liposomes are not able to transporting themselves deep into the skin. What this means is they’re also incompetent at transporting active ingredients into the deep skin tissues either.
“We have shown that liposomes are destroyed before they go into the skin or very soon after. Whenever a liposome is destroyed, it spills its cargo of ingredients. Liposomes are thus not capable carriers for transdermal delivery”, says professor Luis Bagatolli from Membrane Biophysics and Biophotonics Group/MEMPHYS Center for Biomembrane Physics, Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology, University of Southern Denmark.
The research team labeled liposomes with two fluorescent colors using a technique called Raster Imaging Correlation Spectroscopy (RICS) to research the way they move after they are applied to your skin.
“Concerted movement of the two colors should provide evidence that the liposomes are intact once they reach their destination underneath the skin. We did not observe concerted movement after using the liposomes towards the skin”, says Bagatolli.
Prior studies, conducted using other techniques, indicated that liposomes are efficient carriers.
“Previous research completed with another technique provide some hints, although not conclusive evidence, that liposomes are capable of penetrating your skin. Therefore some scientists have concluded that liposomes are efficient carriers. Let’s focus on the first time we’ve conclusive evidence that this isn’t the case”, explains Luis Bagatolli.
Bagatolli, an expert in biological membranes, advises beauty product consumers to not trust the claims that liposomes can carry ingredients into the skin.
“The human skin is designed to prevent external components to enter the body. It’s natural, it also prevents liposomes to enter”, he explains.
